You can do your eyes first and then apply foundation or concealer to the rest of the face afterwards. This will allow you to remove any eyeshadow which may have flaked onto the area underneath your eyes, avoiding a lot of frustration.
Listed below are instructions on how to apply a 2-, 3-, and 4-color eyeshadow design. Whether you want to use just two or up to four colors (more than four tends to get too complicated and the results tend to be muddy-looking unless blending is extremely precise) this step-by-step guide will help you create a classic look which you can tone down or build upon.
It is best to finish every eye design with eyeliner and mascara.
NOTE: Please refer to the eye illustration on this page for placement of shades.
Two-color design: The goal of this classic, common design is to apply a lighter eyeshadow color to the lid area and a deeper color in the crease slightly blending it upward. Applying the lighter color to the entire lid will make your lid look larger and brighter thus creating a rested appearance. You may also reverse this order, which can be helpful for those with large eyelids or protruding eyes. Recommended Paula's Choice Soft Matte Eyeshadow colors to be used as a base color are:
- Chiffon
- Shell
- Cream
- Nearly
- Nude Beige
The best colors for use in the crease are:
- Tan
- Malt
- Nougat
- Twilight
- Granite
- Pale Suede
- Smoky Taupe
How-to: Using Paula's Choice Large Eyeshadow Brush or Shadow Softening Brush apply the lighter color to the base of the lashes and blend all the way up to the brow. Next, use Paula's Choice Crease Defining Brush or Precision Shadow Brush to apply the second shade in the crease, blending up and out toward the outer corner of the eye along the edge of where the brow bone begins. Keeping the second color in and just slightly above the crease will create a natural highlight under the brow’s arch while shading the outer corner of the eye.
TIP: To find the perfect area to place your brush, look straight ahead into a mirror, find the highest point of your eyebrow, and then follow an imaginary vertical line going down toward the eye's crease. Set the brush down into the crease precisely on the imaginary line and begin blending in a slightly outward direction that follows the true crease and just above, to where the brow bone begins. Next, move inward (think windshield-wiper motion) in the crease and along the edge of the brow bone. Do not blend all the way into the inner corner of the eye unless your eyes are noticeably wide-set. Suggestion: For a softer, more diffused effect after crease color is applied, use the Soft Blending Brush without any eyeshadow and blend using soft circular motions along the outer part of the crease.
Three-color design: This design builds on the two-color design detailed above, but adds a third, darker color for shading the outside corner of the eye.Examples of such colors from the Paula's Choice Soft Matte Eyeshadow palette include:
- Hazelnut
- Charcoal Brown
- Moonlit
- Smoky Taupe
- Graphite
- Any of Paula's Choice Soft Matte Eyeshadow Trio also work great for this design.
How-to: Follow the directions and refer to the diagram for the two-color eye design above. Once that is done, use Paula's Choice Crease Defining Brush, Angled Shadow Brush or Precision Shadow Brush to apply the third shade to the true crease area, so none of the darkest shade is actually on the eyelid or to the back corner of the eye, where some of the color is blended down onto the outer third of the eyelid and also into the crease.
TIP: When applying color in the eye's crease, be sure to blend out and slightly up rather than following the downward curve of the eye.
Four-color design: This design builds on the two- and three- color designs detailed above, but adds a fourth color for more intense shading. In this design, the third color is typically applied in the crease and slightly onto the back corner of the eye. The fourth (darkest) color is skillfully applied to the back corner. Combined, this look creates shape, shading, and movement.
Paula's Choice Soft Matte Eyeshadow to consider for the darkest colors include:
- Charcoal Brown
- Hazelnut
- Graphite
How-to: Follow the directions for the three-color eye design described above. The fourth color is best applied with Paula's Choice Precision Shadow Brush or, for those with large eyelids, Small Eyeshadow Brush. Apply the color using small strokes over the back corner of the eyelid only. This look is easy to get wrong until you've had sufficient practice, so do take time to experiment to build confidence in achieving this look. You may wish to use the third color again in the crease, to intensify the effect.
TIP: Every eye design above should be followed by eyeliner and mascara. Paula's Choice Constant Color Gel Eyeliner is a favorite for its ease of application and long wear. It is best applied along the upper lash line with our Precision Liner Brush or Eyeliner Brush, depending on your preference. Those who prefer lining eyes with powder (great for creating a softer look for the lower lash line) can select the following shades from Paula's Choice Soft Matte Eyeshadow:
- Charcoal Brown
- Hazelnut
- Graphite
- The darkest shade from any Paula's Choice Soft Matte Eyeshadow Trio
More tips:
- Matte powder eyeshadows in an array of neutral tones from light to dark are your best bets for a classic, sophisticated eye design that accents the shape and color of your eyes.
- Adding shine is best for the brow bone only, especially if you have wrinkles around the eye or your eyelid skin is less than taut. There are many good powder eyeshadows that impart a soft, subtle shine to highlight this area.
- Unless you're using just one eyeshadow color, use at least two eyeshadow brushes for application.
- Prep the eyelid and under-brow area with a matte-finish concealer, foundation, and/or powder before applying eyeshadow. This ensures a smooth, even application and (if you have fair to medium skin) will also neutralize the red and blue coloration of the eyelid.
- Tap off any excess eyeshadow from your brush before applying-this will prevent over-application and minimize flaking eyeshadow.
- If you really want to make the color of your eyes pop, choose a contrasting color in a soft tone and apply this to the lids. Blue eyes come alive with pale peach or cantaloupe hues, green eyes seem richer with light bronze or caramel tones, hazel eyes become more alluring with chestnut and golden brown shades, and brown eyes are nicely accented by almost all neutral tones.
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